Between the bridge and the Church of San Giovanni e Paolo is a beautiful Renaissance façade of the Scuola Grande di San Marco, which Ruskin called ‘the most refined building in Venice’. The choice of bright marbles, spotted with porfiry red medallions, give a sense of serenity and calm; the whole feel is in contrast with the monochrome somber colour of the brick-façade of the Church next to it. There were once six Scuole – Schools – in Venice, this one being perhaps the most prosperous and decorated. It was in essence a brotherhood institution, where painters, sculptors and artists of all kinds produced some of their finest works, that still today adorne the interior. In 1806, however, Napoleon closed all the Scuole in Venice, using them for all sorts of different functions. Nowadays, the Scuola di San Marco is home to Venice’s main hospital, which stretches all the way back to the lagoon and is certainly the most beautiful hospital any patient could wish to be in.
